First Time in Las Vegas: Love it or Loathe it?

“You’ve never been to Las Vegas before?” the border officer exclaimed as he flicked through my passport. “Oh, man. Vegas is WILD”.

“In Vegas”, he went on, “You see normal people that have very normal jobs, ordinary guys, and then they get to Vegas and they’re dancing on the tables and going crazy!”

For a country renowned for giving you a grilling when you enter, he was being unusually pleasant, even imparting some friendly advice before he signalled me through.

“Watch out for your drinks too. Don’t leave them unattended coz people could put something in it.”

Vegas has a reputation as a hot pool of vice earning it the name ‘Sin City’. Only one of two places in America where it is legal to gamble, both Americans and international travellers flock to drink, gamble and smoke pot (also legal). On the streets, prostitutes hover day and night while getting hold of drugs isn’t a huge challenge.

But that wasn’t my overriding impression of this desert city which has more going for it than casinos.

Flying into Vegas I was struck by its remoteness and amazed by its geology. I gazed down at the landscape from my aeroplane window, open mouthed, as we passed small desert settlements, reservoirs, mountains and miles upon miles of red sandstone, making it look like a scene from a sci-fi film about Mars.

Of course, the Grand Canyon, Valley of fire and Hoover Dam are all popular sights close to Las Vegas but I recommend getting that window seat to see the overall landscape of the Nevada desert.

Soon, larger settlements appeared in the shadow of the mountains and Las Vegas comes in sight. The city was founded in 1905 and by the end of the 20th century had become the most populated city founded in that century.

Once safely on the ground, the enormity of Las Vegas hits you. Everything is big, loud and brash (even by American standards). On the popular Las Vegas Strip statement buildings stand amongst replicas of famous landmarks.

Visiting the city for five days in April for a business conference meant I didn’t embrace many of Vegas’ vices. I got a different perspective of the city although there’s no getting away from its reputation as the gambling capital of the world.

As soon as you get off the plane, opportunities to gamble arise with slot machines at arrivals and departures. All the big hotels have their own casinos. Getting from my room at the MGM Grand to the lobby – or one of its restaurants – involved going through the casinos. Be warned, when you do, the scent of tobacco will hit you as smoking is allowed in casino areas.

The extent of my gambling was a $10 bet on the roulette wheel on my final night (well, I wasn’t going to leave Vegas without dabbling)! It was fun while it lasted and fascinating to watch others gamble huge sums. For me, I doubled my money then lost it all in the space of five minutes.

We then turned our attention to the slot machines – not something I’m very familiar with. Slightly weary from partying the night before, I didn’t have the energy – or inclination – to work out how to play them so called it a night. Not before getting a photo though!

The casinos in Las Vegas are just a small part of its huge entertainment industry which makes it one of the world’s most visited destinations. Not only is it a popular place for business conventions but big name stars take up lucrative residencies in its many theatres and arenas. Some of the headlining acts while I was there included David Copperfield and Jennifer Lopez.

I love to explore a new city by putting on my trainers and hitting the road running – literally. I knew I didn’t have loads of time to sightsee so did something many wouldn’t contemplate doing in Vegas. I went for a run down the Las Vegas Strip

I was immediately struck by how big and over the top everything was. Coming from the UK we do old and dainty very well. Not here. Gleaming shopping malls and soaring hotels take precedence.

Out on the streets, all kinds of people were roaming around at 9am: families, fellow runners, workers and tourists. They wander past vagrant men cradling bottles of alcohol while ladies of the night smile at you as they sip cocktails. Inside, the casinos are just as bustling in the early morning as they are at 10 o’clock at night.

Vegas is a 24 hour city and it is filled with large hotels which cater for all your needs whether you go as a family or with friends. It’s extravagant and unashamedly tacky at time. In some ways it reminded me of another desert city, Dubai.

If you didn’t want to leave the hotel, you could easily remain there for your whole stay using its many shops, restaurants, bars, theatres, casinos and pools.

Many of the hotels seem to be competing to be the most extravagant. You want dancing fountains? You’ve got them at the Bellagio. You want a half-sized replica of the Eiffel Tower? No problem. How about the Arc de Triomphe thrown in for good measure too?

What about the Statue of Liberty? Oh yes, that’s there too. So is the biggest Ferris Wheel in the world? Yep, Vegas unveiled it in 2014. Want to go on a rollercoaster? The fairytale-like hotel The Excalibur has it covered (my daughter would love to stay there).

Anything is possible in Vegas. In the Venetian, gondolas take you on a man-made canal to the lobby. After a few too many, confusion could arise as the ceiling has been painted to look like the sky. Outside, the exterior of the hotel has modelled Italian architecture. At the other end of the strip, the Statue of Liberty stands tall. And where else would you find a Hooters hotel?

Only in Vegas.

Las Vegas is famed for its nightlife. At bars like Coyote Ugly you can, as the border officer alluded to, dance on tables, or rather the bar (just like in the movie). Pool parties are all the rage and nightclubs and high-end restaurants combine (Hakkasan).

We took one of Las Vegas’ ‘party buses’ out on the strip. Filled to the brim with friends, we popped open some fizz (drinking from classy red plastic cups) and hit the strip. The tunes pumping we saw the City of Lights in all its glory.

We watched the dancing fountains and got a photo by the iconic Vegas sign. A man with a fancy camera and flash was ready and waiting for groups like ours to take a photo – for a tip. I recommend taking him up on his offer.

Although much of Las Vegas is a pastiche of lots of different places (Paris, New York, Venice), it is also utterly unique. Yes, it has its vices but most of all it’s fun. Fun, crazy and ridiculous. All at the same time.

My experience was definitely less crazy as I was there for a business convention. The event helped make the trip. It was uplifting and inspiring and more like a rock concert than a conference. It certainly lifted Las Vegas higher in my regard. Love it or loathe it? I’m most definitely in the love it camp and I cannot wait to return next year.

Have you been to Las Vegas? Do you love it or loathe it?

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