A Day In Dijon, The Capital of Burgundy

Mustard. That’s what springs to mind when I think of Dijon. How about you? As we were to discover though, Dijon brings far more to the table than a spicy condiment. In fact my husband and I were surprised at how picturesque and historical the French city is and congratulated ourselves on choosing it as an overnight stay on our way home from the Alps.

The capital of Burgundy and the centre of mustard making during the Middle Ages, Dijon is conveniently located 200 miles from where we were skiing in Morzine and 350 miles from Calais. It meant there would be a longer leg the other end but we were willing to get up early and hit the road with the destination being home!

Our overnight stay was at a hotel which used to be an old monastery with parts dating back to the 1300s. Appart’hôtel Odlays Les Cordeliers opened it in July 2015. It felt a little bit strange staying in such a beautiful and religious building which could easily be a tourist attraction in itself rather than a mid-range hotel.

It was perfect for what we needed and a bargain at £80 for the night. A large living room with TV and kitchenette with a high chair, small dishwasher, hob and microwave. There was a sizeable bedroom with a double bed where we all slept, Mrs T on the pull out bed and Cheeky in a travel cot.

Looking up were the stone ceilings of the old monastery while we looked out onto its ancient walls. We ate breakfast in a room with stained glass window while the courtyard was very impressive.

The historical accommodation was hint of what was waiting for us in Dijon where a mix of Medieval and Renaissance architectures greeted us. Historically, Dijon was a wealthy city which has left a lasting legacy. Walking through the old town there was no shortage of grand buildings with an array of high-end shops to boot. If it hadn’t been so very, VERY cold (temperatures had plummeted to -6 degrees Celsius) it would have been a delight to wander around, take photos and get a lost in the streets of half-timbered housing.

Instead, we retreated inside to the Museè des Beaux-Arts which proved to be a good move. One of the oldest museums in France (founded in 1787), it is located inside the opulent Palais des Ducs where the Dukes of Burgandy lived during the 11th to 15th centuries.

The palace is now home to the City Hall as well as the Museum of Fine Art. Newly renovated in 2013, the museum is free to enter and houses a collection of medieval art, sculptures and European paintings from Renaissance to modern times. There was a glass elevator which whizzed us up the three floors.

We went to the first floor to begin which took us to view the tombs of some of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, including Philip the Bold and John the Fearless. Looking down at the room from up high, Mrs T wondered where the ‘chairs’ were. I am assuming she meant thrones.

She was also interested by the religious paintings. With the Christmas story still fresh in her memory, she could understand and engage a little with the art although I gave her a very brief analysis as to why Jesus was nailed to a cross! To fend off more questions, I explained she would learn more about it at Easter. Lets tackle one Christian festival at a time!

As we viewed some of the paintings of Mary and child, she queried where Joseph was. Good question and she had a point. Always interesting to see things through the eyes of a four-year-old!

We did come across some knights’ armour though in the section on Burgundy during the Middle Ages which made my husband pay a bit more attention, especially with various crossbows and swords on display. I was quite tickled by the varying sizes of the suits with the one on the far left looking like it belonged to a very stout, middle-aged man.

If it had been up to my daughter and I, we would have kept looking a bit longer but the hubby was bored and rightly pointed out that it would be getting dark soon. So we ventured outside to see some more of Dijon.

We got at a glance at the Grand Theatre and the spectacular Church of Notre Dame.

We headed along the Rue de La Liberte, the upmarket part of town. Then we saw it. The carousel! It was with some relief as my daughter had been asking where it was. Assuming there would be one, it had been a slight bargaining tool to her walking the streets of Dijon.

Complete with music, Mrs T’s mode of transport on this particular carousel was an aeroplane. She was even happy to share it with a little boy.

Next to the carousel was a bustling cafe, the Comptoir des Colonies. A quintessential French ‘Salon de thé’ with aged green seats, the tiniest tables and barely enough room to fit a pram. But we managed. My reward? A jug of hot chocolate! It was rich, delicious and warmed my cockles while my husband declared the vin chaud was the best he had tasted. Mrs T’s waffle wasn’t half bad either.

The cold temperatures began to bite and not wanting to wait around in the cold for another two hours until the bistros and restaurants opened we headed back to the hotel to use the self-catering facilities. A wise choice. It had been a long day and we were in need of a warm room and early night. I sent Paul out for some food where he saw more of the city lit up at night, including le Grand hotel la Cloche which appeared to have a light display of its own. Meanwhile I delved into a bottle of Burgundy. Obviously.

When the weather is warmer (even the locals were complaining about how cold it was), we’ve already decided to return to Dijon. Next time we will partake in some mustard tasting. We didn’t have any while we were there. Perhaps we will explore one of the many wine routes too. Dijon is a city of surprises and worth a visit. It also has the smallest buses I have ever seen!

If you enjoyed this article, you can download it as an article app – along with other city guides – at GPSmyCity

Pin for later