A Birthday, Thai Pongal Festival & Tea, Sri Lanka

I have spent my birthday in another country just a handful of times. The first time was during my round-the-world travels, celebrating my 22nd birthday hiking and kayaking at a  National Park in Queensland, Australia. I have been skiing in France with friends on my birthday and, during the early stages of pregnancy, in Barbados with the in-laws – a few years back. This year we escaped the cold, January streets of London (and it so happens I was pregnant again) to spent my birthday in Sri Lanka.

Carefully planned in advance by my husband we were in the hill country, surrounded by stunning tea plantations for the big day, spending three nights at the colonial Ceylon Tea Trails. It would be hard to find somewhere more picturesque and I have to say it was the most sedate birthday I had ever had. At the small, luxury bungalow there was me, my husband and daughter along with four other couples…we were the youngest there by about 30 years.

Coincidentally, my birthday happened to land on the same day as the Tamil people’s harvest festival, Thai Pongal. The four-day event celebrates and gives thanks to nature, the sun and farm animals for their assistance in providing a successful rice harvest. Although most Tamils are Hindu, Thai Pongal is celebrated by all Tamils irrespective of their religious background.

The night before my birthday, the celebrations had already begun with the sound of banging drums seemingly going on all night. I felt like I was missing out on a big party – and unfortunately it wasn’t mine! The music and celebrations continued throughout our time at the plantation. The sound seemed to funnel up from the valley as the Tamils enjoyed their public holiday.

The next morning I was feeling on the tired side as the drumming had kept me awake a bit but I couldn’t have been in a better place than Tea Trails for being waited on and a delicious breakfast was served.

The reason the drumming had felt like it went on all night (and it may well have) is because many of the Sri Lankan Tamils are up at dawn on Thai Pongal, performing the festival tradition at first light. This involves boiling up pots of milk until they overflow then cooking rice sweetened with jaggery and sugarcane. The first portion is offered to Surya, the Sun God and the rest eaten by the family.

For us, it was a bit of time by the pool where we could hear the festival music fill the hills. After lunch, I was keen to get out and see some of the area and perhaps take a peek at what the Thai Pongal festival was all about. So, the three of us set off on a small trek.

We followed the paths which weave through the extensive tea plantations owned by the Dilmah tea company, taking in the stunning views.

The trail took us through a small village, home to some of the Tamil tea pickers at the plantation. We were greeted warmly and they allowed me to take some pictures.

Most of the workers had the four days off to celebrate the festival and were dressed up in beautiful, brightly coloured outfits with their houses newly painted. On the floor, they had drawn intricate designs, known as Kolam, which were filled with coloured rice or rice flour. Outside their houses they had made offerings with mango leaves and bananas, which are both sacred in their culture.

Knowing they would take a keen interest in our daughter, Mrs T sat on daddy’s shoulders and viewed from above. They were all very friendly and it was fascinating to get a glimpse into their culture, especially on this special day.

As we left the village to embark further on our trek, something strange happened…I noticed Mrs T had fallen asleep…on her father’s shoulders! Unbelievable. There was no way we could carry on. We soaked up the final, fresh view on our walk, looking down on a now rather cloudy scene glimpsing the huge reservoir in the valley and smelling the honey, tea-fused air.

We turned back and as we came nearer to the same village I heard the sound of a now familiar drum beat…the festival had come to us! I’d finally get a glimpse of what it was all about…

It was hard to decipher exactly what was going on but I was very excited to unexpectedly become an observer. A group of male musicians had appeared with the drumbeat pulsing away accompanied by some singing. Some of the women prayed in front of a brightly-coloured, tall shrine – giving thanks for the new harvest ahead while the villagers made their offerings as a hand bell was rung and they looked as though they were being blessed. Take a look at my short video below to get a small flavour of the Thai Pongal festival.

It was incredible to be part of such an experience and getting a privileged glimpse into the Tamil culture but, sensing it was not our place to be there, we went on our way and headed back to the bungalow…Mrs T sleeping for most of the way back while being carried by Paul.

The rest of my birthday passed relatively uneventfully. Being unable to indulge in anything stronger, I had some tea on the veranda and hung out with my daughter doing jigsaws and playing snap.

Later that evening, we had a delicious Sri Lankan curry prepared by the on-site chef surrounded by the other inhabitants of the bungalow. As we had just polished off a three-course dinner, the lights suddenly dimmed and I was treated to a chorus of Happy birthday complete with a cake. Of course there was a cake! My husband had given them a heads up and a sumptuous chocolate creation was produced with some fizz! I treated myself to one glass and enjoyed the rest of the evening chatting to the guests, talking of travel tales and life stories by a roaring fire. Although it was a pretty sober affair (being pregnant on your birthday is a teeny bit rubbish), it was unique experience and a birthday that I shall never forget.