Considered by many as the gastronomic centre of Italy (no mean feat in a country famous for its cuisine), Emilia-Romagna in northern Italy is home to the world’s best restaurant, Osteria Francescana, located in the city of Modena. But go into almost any restaurant, the more unassuming the better, and you won’t be disappointed with what you taste. There you will find hearty meals without too many airs, made using local ingredients, which evoke a homemade warmth.
Lacking the popularity of regions such as Tuscany and Umbria, we decided to visit the less touristy Emilia-Romagna as part of a road trip through France and northern Italy taking us to the cities of Modena, Bologna and Parma. Here are five dishes and food which we particularly enjoyed during our week-long stay in the region as a family.
Tagliatelle al Ragu
Tagliatelle al ragu is the most famous dish from the city of Bologna but whatever you do, don’t ask for spaghetti bolognese! It is thought that the westernised dish is a British and American interpretation of Bologna’s meat dish which servicemen fell in love with when passing through the region during World War 2. But the real Bologna ragu is made with tagilatelle rather than spaghetti (which is from Naples) and it isn’t slathered in tomatoes but more about the meat. One of the ragus we tasted used a mix of pork and beef. It is a delicious dish and a must-eat in Bologna!
Parmesan (Parmigiano-Reggiano)
When in Parma you don’t just sprinkle a bit of parmesan on your pasta. Ordering parmesan (or parmigiano-reggiano) as part of the antipasti results in getting a huge chunk of the strong cheese to eat (alongside a pile of prosciutto). It is not for the faint-hearted and we didn’t manage to eat all of ours although our daughter, Mrs T, gave it a good go.
Parma Ham
Specially bred pigs with a specific diet (which includes Parmigiano-Reggiano) are used to make prosciutto di Parma. Only authorised producers within a certain area around Parma are allowed, by law, to carry its name and be branded with the ‘Parma Crown’. Parma’s version is simply divine, a melt in the mouth sensation which has a slightly nutty taste to it. The ham was well worth me trying even though I was pregnant (and supposedly not allowed to eat cured ham).
Gnocco Fritto
These fried puffs of bread from the Emilia-Romagna region are absolutely delicious. Served with salami, ham and cheese as part of the antipasti, the soft puffs of Italian bread are a welcome addition to the starter and once again my daughter was a big fan.
Tortellini in brodo
Traditionally served on Christmas day, the dish of stuffed tortellini in broth is delicious all year around. I am a big fan of the warming soup and it was a winner with Mrs T too. Clearly Emilia-Romagna has lots of food options for children.
Balsamic Vinegar
Modena is the home of balsamic vinegar so you need to indulge in a bit sampling while you are there and make sure you buy traditional ‘Aceto Balsamico’ to take home with you (we got ours from the indoor food market in Modena). This traditional type of aged balsamic vinegar is different from the commercially produced ‘Balsamic Vinegar of Modena’ which you probably have in your kitchen cupboard.
More expensive than the mass produced version (we paid around €20), Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale is made from a reduction of pressed Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes and is aged for at least nine years in wooden barrels. It has a delicious, rich taste and should be used on meat and even on some desserts rather than in salads (use the cheaper vinegar for that). Its rich taste and high price tag is probably why you won’t find it on the restaurant tables mixed with olive oil. We didn’t see that once during our travels around Emilia-Romagna.
Gelato
To be sampled over and over again. And again. Italian ice cream really is the best. From zesty sorbets to decadent chocolate choices, there’s something for all tastes, and we did our best at sampling a range. Just make sure you have some wipes and spare napkins to hand, especially if with young children (although handy for adults too)!
To drink, try the local red Lambrusco (I’m not saying it’s a patch on the white fizz but worth a try) and a glass of full-bodied sangiovese.Â
If you are a foodie and haven’t visited Emilia-Romagna, you really need to plan a trip there!
yes, lots of great food! and gelato is really really good! I also had the best pizza in Italy in Bologna:)
Tanja (the Red phone box travels) recently posted…Wandering around London in 72 hours (part III)
Did you Tanja? How fab! Shows how great the food is there – Bologna isn’t even known for its pizza!
Oh, yum! Our last trip to Italy wasn’t a gastronomic success due to tired road trippers who were hungry at precisely the wrong times but this post makes me determined to focus more on food next time.
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It’s quite hard to have a bad meal in Italy – wherever you go but it’s definitely worth trying out the local regional dishes. Thanks for reading. x
I LOVE Italian cuisine! I don’t remember having a bad meal when in Italy. And I couldn’t agree more: Italian gelato is the best! 🙂 #MondayEscapes
Haha – it sure is! Definitely hard to find a bad meal there.
Now this looks like my kind of food! I like to eat chunks of parmesan, so I’d be very much at home there.
Nell (the Pigeon Pair and Me) recently posted…A week at Strandpark Vlugtenburg, Holland
Oh wow, this all looks amazing! I’m hungry now #MondayEscapes
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Haha…glad I’ve whet your appetite…it was all so delicious.
Gnocco Fritto sounds amazing! It’s great that the restaurants use local ingredients, it keeps the dishes fresh and exciting. Thanks for sharing these delicious foods!
Brooke of Passport Couture recently posted…Seasons at the Denver Botanic Gardens Chatfield Farms
You are welcome…thanks for stopping by. The Gnocco Fritto was delicious… we had to hold back a little to stop getting full before the mains had been served!
Everything looks delicious! I would start by trying the Tagliatelle al Ragu. I have never heard about the Gnoco Fritto before. That one is a new one for me.
Ruth recently posted…Sequoias: Largest Trees in the World
Oh Ruth, you would LOVE it there. It would have been good to do a bit of a food tour there…if we had a bit more time. x
There’s nothing like gelato, over and over and over again 🙂 #mondayescapes
I know… it’s just the best!
Yes! Emilia Romagna is simply foodie heaven 🙂 The region also hosts a number of food festivals which offer a great way for travelers to taste a bit of everything. WanderMum, lovely (and delicious) article!
Raffaella recently posted…Hidden destinations in Tuscany: Colle Val d’Elsa and Val d’Orcia
Thank you so much. We loved it there although will have to go back in truffle season – YUM!
I got so hungry reading your post! I miss Bologna, everything I ate there was absolutely delicious (especially tagliatelle, haha). Also, I’ve been to Italy twice this year, but the best gelato I had was in Bologna 😀
Vlad recently posted…A Foodie’s Guide To Eating In Malta
It’s so great for food there and the gelato is definitely the best too!
OMG, all of them look sooo delicious! I confess that I didn’t know about the spaghetti bolognese fact, good to know! I still haven’t been to the Emilia Romagna region, but when I do I will make sure to try them all 😀 Italy is a paradise for a foodie!
Thank you for joining #MondayEscapes 😀
Packing my Suitcase recently posted…Top places to propose in and around Munich
Hey Allane, I wasn’t aware of the Bolognese story either before I went. I think you would really enjoy exploring Emilia-Romagna!
I couldn’t agree more with this list. You’ll never think of parmesan as something merely to put atop pasta dishes once you’ve had a slice cut straight off one of those golden delicious huge wheels.
Thanks Jennifer, you’re right, I’m definitely eating bigger chunks of parmesan since my visit. Merely grating it just doesn’t seem right anymore.
You make the food here sound so good! I’ve only recently gotten into gnocchi, so I know I’d be all over that. And balsamic vinegar? I know that must be heaven. 🙂 I’d probably have to ship a box of it back home. The parmesan cheese though? I recently tried some true parmesan cheese (not Kraft) and wow! That stuff is strong! I haven’t spent too much time in Italy, so hopefully when I manage to get back I can try some of the things that made your list. 🙂
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Italy is such a diverse country – with some amazing cuisine – hope you get to go back soon!